Four steps before installation
Four steps to complete before the lights go on your house.
Unbox and test on the ground
Learn the connections before installing anything.
Build the full run
Plug in the lights, cables, accessories, and planned power-injection points.
Try the accessories
Practice the connections now, while everything is easy to reach.
Use every light
Change colors, brightness, and effects. Confirm the final light responds.
Follow the arrows
Data enters each puck from the controller side and exits toward the next light. A reversed puck breaks the data path.
- −Negative: completes the power circuit.
- DData: carries color and effect commands in the arrow direction.
- +Positive: supplies voltage to the lights.
Controller → first light → next light → final light
Use the right cable, tools, and accessories
Good cable planning makes installation faster and cleaner.
Thicker six-conductor cable for flexible multi-conductor wiring plans.
Six-conductor cable for layouts where the planned load and distance permit it.
Three-conductor cable for a simpler circuit where only three conductors are required.
Plan before pulling cable
More conductors can reduce separate cable runs, but gauge and conductor count must still match the voltage, load, distance, and wiring plan.
Use a multimeter
Compare voltage at the controller and at the far end while the lights are running a bright effect.
Cut track carefully
Measure twice and keep cuts square for straight transitions.
Use corner connectors
Use corners or correctly cut track for clean changes in direction. See the track guide.
Check voltage and plan power injection
Use the diagram matching your system voltage.
Measure under load
Run a bright, high-power effect, then compare controller voltage with the far end.
Watch the lights
A noticeable color or brightness change near the end can indicate voltage drop.
Try 80% brightness
Reducing brightness can extend a run, but add power injection if voltage falls below the limit.
Controller, power supply, lights, and power-injection connections must use the same voltage. Unplug power before changing wiring.
Set the LED count in the app
Enter the number of connected lights—not feet or track sections.
Use the actual light count
Count every connected light node and save that number in the device settings.
Set unused outputs to 1
If a controller output has no lights connected, set that output's length to 1.
Blue = power, but no data
If downstream lights stay blue or ignore color changes, increase the LED count gradually until the final light responds.
Do not add lights that do not exist
An excessive count makes the controller calculate and send unnecessary data, which can slow responsiveness.
Test before mounting
Restart the controller, change colors and effects, and confirm the final light still responds.
Ready to install?
Mount the system only after these checks pass.
- The complete run works on the ground.
- Data direction runs outward from the controller.
- Cable matches the wiring plan and distance.
- Far-end voltage remains within 15%.
- Power injection matches the correct voltage diagram.
- Active LED counts are correct; unused outputs are set to 1.
Permanent LED light setup questions
Fast answers to the issues customers ask about most.
Why are my permanent LED lights blue?
Blue lights have power but are not receiving usable data. Confirm data direction and increase the LED count gradually until the final connected light responds.
How many LEDs should I enter in the app?
Enter the actual number of connected light nodes—not feet or track sections. Set the length of each unused controller output to 1.
When do permanent lights need power injection?
Test voltage under a bright, high-load effect. Plan power injection if a 12V run falls below about 10.2V or a 24V run falls below about 20.4V.
Can permanent LED lights be connected backward?
No. Data travels from the controller through each light in the arrow direction. Reversing a puck interrupts data to the lights downstream.